Shop LED strip lights by type

• COB LED Strip Lights — chip-on-board LED strips with a continuous, dotless line of light. The best choice when the strip is visible or sits in a shallow channel.
• Single Color LED Strip Lights — fixed warm white, natural white, daylight, or blue, red, green and amber. The most cost-effective option for everyday task and accent lighting.
• Tunable White LED Strip Lights — adjust from warm 2700K to cool 6500K on the same strip. Ideal for kitchens, offices and bedrooms where the light needs to change through the day.
• RGB & RGBW LED Strip Lights — color-changing LED strip lights, with RGBW adding a dedicated white channel so you get usable white light plus color effects.
• Addressable LED Strip Lights — individually controlled pixels for chasing, gradient and animated effects, including WS2812B-style and similar protocols.
• LED Neon Strip Lights — silicone neon flex with a soft, even glow and a bendable body for signs, letters, curves and outlines.
• Outdoor & Waterproof LED Strip Lights — IP65 and IP67 waterproof LED strip lights for patios, decks, soffits, boats, bathrooms and other damp or wet locations.
• Commercial & Specialty LED Strip Lights — high-output, high-CRI, high-density and application-specific LED strips for retail, hospitality, architectural and OEM builds.

Popular LED strip light applications

• Kitchen and under-cabinet lighting — under-cabinet, under-counter, under-cupboard, toe-kick, pantry and open-shelf lighting. High-CRI warm or neutral white strips make countertops and food look right; COB removes the dotted reflection off glossy backsplashes and stone.
• Ceilings, coves and crown molding — cove lighting, tray ceilings, crown molding, soffits, stairs and hallway runs. 24V strips are the safer pick here because long continuous runs suffer less voltage drop.
• Bedroom, TV backlighting and game rooms — RGB, RGBW and addressable strips for behind-the-TV bias lighting, desks, monitors, headboards and gaming setups.
• Outdoor and wet locations — waterproof LED strip lights for decks, pergolas, railings, landscape edges, garages, bathrooms and boats.
• Vehicles, RVs and marine — 12V LED strip lights match automotive and marine electrical systems directly, for interiors, underbody accents, trailers, campers and cabins.
• Retail, signage and commercial — display cases, shelving, light boxes, channel letters, bars, restaurants, hotels and architectural detailing.

How to choose LED strip lights

Work through these six specs in order and you'll land on the right strip almost every time.

1. Pick the lighting effect first. Single color for straightforward task and accent light, COB for a smooth dotless line, tunable white for adjustable warm-to-cool white, RGB or RGBW for color, addressable for animation, and LED neon flex for signs and outlines.
2. Choose the voltage. 5V for short USB-powered runs, 12V for vehicles, boats and short residential runs, 24V for longer continuous runs with less voltage drop. Strip, power supply and controller all have to match.
3. Match the brightness. Compare watts per foot (or per meter) and lumens per foot, not just LED count. Under-cabinet task lighting needs far more output than a decorative cove.
4. Set color temperature and CRI. 2700K–3000K reads warm and residential, 4000K neutral, 5000K–6500K bright and daylight-like. For kitchens, retail displays, bathrooms and anywhere color accuracy matters, choose CRI 90+ LED strips.
5. Check the IP rating. IP20 for dry indoor use, IP65 for splashes and damp areas, IP67 for outdoor, wet and washdown locations.
6. Confirm width and cut length. Strip width runs from roughly 3mm to 12mm — narrow strips fit slim channels, tight coves and PC cases. Every strip has fixed cut points; shorter cut intervals mean more precise final lengths.

LED strip voltage guide

Run lengths are typical maximums per power feed. Longer runs are still possible — you just power-inject from both ends or feed the run in sections.

Cutting, connecting and installing LED strip lights

Cutting: nearly every LED strip can be cut, but only on the marked cut lines printed between the copper solder pads. Cutting anywhere else kills the segment. Use sharp scissors and cut straight down the middle of the marked line so both halves keep usable pads.

Connecting: join cut sections with solderless clip-on connectors, or solder wire directly to the pads for the most reliable long-term connection. Watch polarity on single-color strips (+ and −) and keep RGB, RGBW and addressable channels in the correct order (R, G, B, W or data/clock lines).

Installing: clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol before applying the adhesive backing, and press firmly along the whole run. On painted drywall, rough wood, hot locations or anywhere the strip will be visible, mount it in an aluminum channel with a diffuser — the channel adds mechanical support, spreads heat and hides the individual LEDs.

What you'll need besides the strip

• Power supply — sized to the total wattage of the run, with about 20% headroom. A 60W run should be on a 72W or larger driver.
• Dimmer or controller — required for RGB, RGBW, tunable white and addressable strips. Single-color strips only need a dimmer if you want to adjust brightness.
• Connectors and extension wire — for corners, gaps between cabinets and jumps between runs.
• Aluminum channel and diffuser — for a finished look, better heat dissipation and a softer, less dotted light line.

For contractors, resellers and project buyers

For commercial, wholesale and custom LED strip light orders, confirm these before you order: voltage standard, reel length and total footage, LED density, lumen output per foot, CRI target, color temperature tolerance (binning), IP rating, dimming method and control protocol, PCB width and copper weight, warranty terms and any required certifications. Certifications vary by product line — UL, CE and RoHS status is listed on each individual product page, so confirm the specific SKU meets your project's requirements before ordering. We supply LED strips for lighting contractors, sign shops, fixture manufacturers, distributors and OEM builds, and can quote by reel or by project. Send drawings or a spec sheet and we'll match the closest stock item or quote a custom run.

Frequently asked questions about LED strip lights

Can you cut LED strip lights?
Yes. LED strip lights can be cut, but only at the marked cut points printed on the strip — usually a scissor icon or a line across the copper pads. Cut intervals vary by product, from every single LED on some COB and high-density strips up to every 4 inches or more on standard SMD strips. Check the product page for the exact cut interval before you cut.

Where do you cut LED strip lights?
Cut straight across the middle of the marked copper pads. That leaves half the pad on each section so both pieces can still be soldered or clipped into a connector. Cutting between cut points breaks the circuit for that whole segment.

How do you connect LED strip lights together?
Two options: solderless connectors that clip over the copper pads, or soldering wire directly to the pads. Soldering is more reliable long-term and lower profile; connectors are faster and need no tools. Either way, match polarity and keep the channel order consistent on multi-channel strips.

How do you install LED strip lights?
Measure the run, cut at the nearest cut point, clean the mounting surface with isopropyl alcohol, peel and press the adhesive backing firmly, then connect to a matching power supply. Add an aluminum channel where the strip is visible or the surface is rough, and mount the driver somewhere ventilated and accessible.

What's the difference between 12V and 24V LED strip lights?
Both are low-voltage DC. For the same wattage, 24V draws half the current of 12V, so it loses less brightness over distance and supports roughly twice the continuous run length. Use 12V for vehicles, boats and short runs; use 24V for long ceiling, cove and commercial runs. The strip, power supply and controller must all be the same voltage.

What's the difference between COB and SMD LED strips?
SMD strips use individual surface-mounted LED chips spaced along the strip, which can show visible dots and shadows. COB (chip-on-board) strips coat a dense row of LEDs under a continuous phosphor layer, producing a smooth, dotless line with no hotspots. COB is the better choice for exposed installations; SMD generally offers more options for color, high output and specialty configurations.

Do LED strip lights need a power supply?
Yes — low-voltage LED strips need a DC driver that matches the strip voltage and covers the total wattage of the run with headroom. RGB, RGBW, tunable white and addressable strips also need a controller. Single-color strips work with just the power supply, plus an optional dimmer.

Are LED strip lights waterproof?
Only if they're rated for it. IP20 strips are dry-location only. IP65 silicone-coated strips handle splashes and humidity, and IP67 strips are sealed for outdoor and wet locations. Outdoor installs also need a weatherproof power supply and sealed end caps and connections.

How long do LED strip lights last?
Quality LED strips are typically rated for 30,000 to 50,000 hours. Real-world life depends mostly on heat and power quality — an over-driven strip on a marginal power supply with no channel to sink heat will dim and fail years early, while a properly sized run in an aluminum channel gets close to its rating.

Do LED strip lights use a lot of electricity?
No. Most LED strips draw roughly 1.5 to 5 watts per foot. A 16-ft run at 3W per foot is about 48W — comparable to a single traditional bulb, for a whole kitchen's worth of under-cabinet lighting.